How to Grow Potatoes
Ah!! The versatile and lovable Potato. Spuds, or tubers, as they are
affectionately nicknamed, are a regular at the dinner table, as well as
breakfast. Plain by itself, it does not have a strong, overpowering flavor.
But the numerous ways we cook and serve it, and the wide variety of spices,
herbs and sauces added to or put on it, makes for a tremendous number of
delicious tastes.
Despite it's mealtime appeal, it is surprising that more home gardeners do
not grow potatoes. Two or three hills do not take up an overly large amount
of space. And, it does not require a lot of maintenance. While you can buy,
seed potatoes, the home gardener can use any potato that has been lying around
the kitchen long enough to develop "eyes".
Types:
-
Idaho- Famous for their quality as "Bakers"
-
White Potatoes- This is the basic and most popular potato. It is used for
everything from mashed to french fries.
-
Red Potatoes- A less common variety with great taste!
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Salt Potatoes- Don't forget these. They are small white potatoes which are
popular at fall cookouts and clambakes.
Did you know? Potatoes were not part of the first Thanksgiving. Irish
immigrants had not yet brought them to North America.
More Potato trivia: Potato chips were first made by Chef George Crum
in Saratoga Springs, NY on August 24, 1853.
Growing Potatoes:
Potatoes grow best in soft "muck" soil. Wherever mucklands can be found,
you will find onion or potato farming. Potatoes will grow in many other soils.
But, potato root development is enhanced by adding lots of compost and loose
material into the soil. When preparing your soil, add compost, straw and
other amendments down three to six inches into your soil.
The "Seed" is a potato that has developed an "eye". Potato eyes can
be obtained in garden stores or seed catalogs, or in your kitchen cupboard.
If there isn't any in your kitchen, ask around to friends and family.
Potatoes can be planted as early as two weeks before the last frost in your
area. They are susceptible to frost, but take a couple weeks to root and
emerge from the soil.
The most common form of planting is in "hills". Prepare and loosen the soil
where you will make the hill. Place two or three potato eyes on the ground.
Cover or "hill" three to four inches of soil on top of the seed. Water
thoroughly. Space center of hills a foot apart.
A second and less common method is to use furrows. Dig a trench six to eight
inches deep. Fill 1/2 the depth of the trench with a mixture of compost,
mulch, straw and garden soil. Sow the eyes in the trench every four to six
inches. Cover three to four inches with loose garden soil and mulch.
Fertilize every two to four weeks. Fertilizers high in nitrogen will
result in a leafy, green plant at the expense of root development. A good
fertilizer for potatoes contain low levels of Nitrogen, and high levels of
phosphorus. 6-24-24, or 8-24-24, are good fertilizers for potatoes.
As the plants grow, mound additional soil around the plants every week or
two. Do not let the tubers or potatoes be exposed to sunlight. You can cover
the soil around the plants with compost, mulch or even black plastic.
Important: Potatoes exposed to sunlight will turn green. They also
produce a toxin that is poisonous to you. Discard any potato that is green.
Harvest:
Several weeks after the plant has developed, very carefully, dig down among
the roots to see if the potatoes have developed large enough tubers to harvest.
Be careful not to sever the main root from the plant to the new potato. Replace
soil or mulch around the plant. Once they have become large enough for
consumption, you can harvest as much as you need for your individual meals.
After the plants have died off, dig out and around the entire plant. Be careful
to dig our far enough that you do not slice into any potatoes while harvesting.
You need not hasten to dig out your potatoes after the plant has died. They
will remain perfectly safe and healthy under your garden soil for weeks.
Insects and pests however, will continue to be a problem. You will have no
respite from insects, moles or mice munching upon the harvest.
Again, discard any potatoes that are green in color.
Days to Maturity:
Early varieties 70 to 90 days, mid season varieties 90 to 120 days, late
varieties 120 to 140 days.
Important Note: Potatoes that have been exposed to sunlight will develop
a green skin which contains toxins that will make you sick. Discard any potatoes
that are green.
Insects:
Potatoes are susceptible to a number of pests. Among the most common
are potato maggots.
A homemade recipe: Rhubarb juice seems to work well for potato bugs, just
boil the rhubarb and let it cool. Then, pour it and around the
plants.
Diseases of Potatoes:
Potatoes suffer from some of the same blight and mildew problems as tomatoes.
Fungicides will help with fungus diseases. If the plant becomes too bushy,
air circulation will be impaired and increase the chances of disease. Do
not hesitate to thin a bushy plant to increase air circulation.
Hardiness:
Potatoes are quite susceptible to frost. While you can plant them in the
ground prior to the last frost, make sure your timing is such that they do
not sprout prior to the last frost date. Late season varieties are also
susceptible to fall frost, even a mild one. While the plant will die back,
the potato underneath the soil is safe from harm of frost or even freezes.
Potato "Lite":
More Information:
Buy Vegetable Seeds Finest quality Ferry Morse Seed,
America's oldest seed company with their famous "guarantee to grow". |
